Crape Myrtle A Personal Favorite For Long Blooming Time and Lasting Color

Known more as a familiar planting of the Southeast the new hybridized form of Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) can be successfully grown here in the Northeast as well as in the Northwest where the winters are harsher.  These showy trees are a personal favorite of mine due to their beautiful long lasting blooms that start at the end of the summer and last well into Fall, a bloom period of approximately 120 days!   Just as other flowering trees and shrubs are reaching the end of their bloom cycle the stately Crape Myrtle Lagerstroemia indica starts its spectacular show. I often use these beautiful trees as an eye catching element in my designs as they serve nicely as an anchor plant in a foundation planting or as a focal point in an island bed or backyard garden.

Crape Myrtle Sioux

There are many varieties of this beautiful tree ranging in size from ‘Pocomoke’ and ’Chickasaw’, which are dwarf varieties topping off at approximately 5 feet to ‘Natchez’ (White), ‘Tuscarora’ (Coral Pink) and ‘Muskogee (Lavender) ranging 12-20 feet. A personal favorite of mine is Crape Myrtle ’Sioux’, a medium variety that ranges in height to approximately 12-15 feet. The medium-pink flowers of the ‘Sioux’ Crepe Myrtle begin late in July and last well into October and are an elegant display not to be missed. Two other varieties of Lagerstroemia worth mentioning are ‘Tonto’ and ‘Dynamite’, both known for their vibrant red flowers and medium height of 12-15 feet. 

Crape Myrtle Tuscarora

HARDINESS & PRUNING: Lagerstroemia are a hardy to zones 7-9 and are “deer resistant”, meaning that deer will most likely avoid them in their diet. They grow best in full sunlight in a well-drained soil with a pH of 5.0-6.5. These trees require little to no pruning but can be pruned to maintain a more compact shape or to remove any dead branches that may result from a harsh winter.  If you are going to prune wait until late winter or early spring after the last frost. The plants are dormant in winter and any flowering occurs on new growth so pruning will encourage new flower producing branches. Remove any dead branches, suckers growing from the base or weak twiggy branches and allow strong leader branches to keep the framework of the tree.

Crape Myrtle Sioux bloom

TRANSPLANTING:  If you are planning on transplanting your Crape Myrtle tree the best time to transplant in the northeast is in mid April or mid September through mid October.  Roots need time to become established before the summer heat or winter cold set in. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball and make sure the tree sits at the height of the surface or slightly above.  Apply a layer of mulch around the tree to protect the roots and keep well watered until established.  Crape Myrtle are somewhat sensitive to cold so there may be some branch die back in the first season until the plant becomes well established. 

Crape Myrtle Tuscarora bloom

Depending on the preference of the grower Crape Myrtle can be planted as either a multi -trunk or singular-trunk form and can be displayed as either a shrub or tree in the landscape.  An important note worth mentioning is that Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia) are among the last plants to push out their new growth so if they appear to be dead at the end of winter going into spring just give them some time to come into their glory. Since they are later to push out their leaves they do benefit from an early spring feeding of a high phosphorus-lower nitrogen 5-10-5 formula to promote good foliar growth and an abundance of blooms in July-August. Crape Myrtles are not susceptible to insects or disease but as in any landscape planting they should be monitored and properly maintained to keep them in good health. 

Crape Myrtle Muskogee

If you are looking for a long blooming, deer resistant, low maintenance tree to add color to your garden then Crape Myrtle may be the tree for you. I for one would highly recommend this beautiful plant as a welcome addition to any formal or informal landscape.

Author: Lee@A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2010. All Rights Reserved

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Fall and Winter Gardening Some Helpful Tips

As winter approaches there are some basic gardening tips that can be followed to ensure the health and vitality of your landscape plants.  I have discussed each of these separately in past articles and have decided to put them all into one list for easier reference. 

Watering During Fall & Winter: It is important that prior to winter that there is significant moisture around your plants. Once the ground freezes it is difficult for water to percolate down to the roots.  Deciduous trees go dormant but evergreens remain somewhat active and need moisture to the roots.  Water as much as possible before the ground freezes, especially if you have new plantings.  A well watered tree will over winter far better than a thirsty one and will not be as susceptible to winter frost damage and drying.

Pruning Ornamental Grasses: Heres a helpful tip for pruning your ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus sinensis Maiden Grass or Dwarf Fountain Grass Hameln. Winter cold can harm the center of grasses causing them to "hollow out". It is best to cut your grasses back in late March to early April in order to protect the roots. If your grasses become a bit unruly by the end of the fall then just cut back the plumes and leave the rest for early spring. Another trick is to wrap a bungee cord about half way up around the center and let the grasses drape over keeping them upright and in place. Ornamental grasses can add much interest to the winter landscape and be enjoyed all winter long. For more information visit: Fall-Garden-Maintenance-Pruning-&-Dividing-Ornamental-Grasses-and-Perennials

Anti-Desiccant Spray:  When the daytime temperatures start falling below 50 degrees it is time to apply an anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens such as holly, rhododendron, cherry laurel, skip laurel, mountain laurel, Japanese skimmia, leucothoe, aucuba and boxwood. These plants can be subject to severe winter burn due to water loss from the leaves by transpiration. Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours. (This tip applies to areas going into their winter season-temperatures dropping below freezing: 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit.) If there is a prolonged thaw in mid-winter it may be time to re-apply anti-desiccant spray to your broad leaf evergreens, especially if there are more prolonged freezing temperatures on the way. For more detailed information go to: Winterizing-Evergreens-Anti-Desiccant-Spray

Frost Heaving:  In freezing temperatures soil around your plants may be subject to frost heaving. This is when ice forms underneath the soil and expands upwards from the ground causing plants such as perennials to push upwards exposing the crown. Heuchera (Coral Bells) and Liriope are especially prone to this type of damage. As a preventive measure apply mulch finishing to your garden beds. To remedy, slightly tap the soil back down, and brush the mulch back around the exposed crown of the plant.

Ice Damage to Branches:  As winter progresses there is an increased threat of snow and ice build up on the branches of trees and shrubs in the landscape. If snow piles up on your evergreens try to carefully brush it away removing the excess weight from the branches. If the snow does not remove easily do not shake the branches. This can cause breakage and damage. If the tree or shrub is covered with ice permit nature to take its course and allow the ice to melt naturally. If your landscape does suffer any damage from winter storms it is recommended to remove any broken limbs to avoid stress and disease to the plant. This can be done when the weather allows.

I am hoping that you find these tips to be helpful. Gardening does continue throughout fall and winter and some simple preparation can go a long way especially in areas where winters are harsh.  I for one have found these techniques to be very worthwhile and productive over the years. For further reading you can also visit Winter Gardening:  12 Helpful Tips.
 
                                               As Always...Happy Gardening!


Author:Lee@ A Guide To Northeastern Gardening Copyright 2011. All Rights Reserved

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